Made some more progress.
See OP. Need some help.
Made some more progress.
See OP. Need some help.
-Mike
Have you had a chance to narrow it down to a fuel or spark issue? Start off making sure you have fuel pressure. Are you running stock ECU? If so, CELs are usually give a good clue on what may be wrong. If you're running an AEM, I can't be much help. I did a complete engine R&R this spring so I know how much of a headache it can be. I'd be happy to come down from Ann Arbor to help some time. I'll PM my number.
-Paul
2.3l Stroker, Race Ported Head, 3" TBE, AMS FMIC, PPI LICP, AMS UICP w/Tial BOV, AMS Front Motor Mounts, HKS 272s, Walbro 255, PTE 1000cc injectors, Ferodo DS-2500 Brake Pads, Hotchkis Rear Sway Bar, Performance Friction 2-Piece Rotors, Muellerized JIC FLT-A2
I've got a small update. I'm going to post it in here rather than OP for now (at my Dad's house, where the car is)
------------Early Nov 17-----
Got the brake lines all in, bled, and connected. Got the calipers on.
Also put the Walbro in - finally. Rob thankfully knew the trick to getting that plate out easily without fighting it forever - which is what I ended up having to do when I first got the car (to check for a Walbro, as I am apparently tone deaf - can't hear other people's Walbro's).
Got no clutch pedal pressure what so ever now. I think it's because the brake res was empty. Rob started to suck fluid through (litterally). Gonna have to figure out that problem - IDK how.
Attempted to start the car before Rob left (and nearly ran him over!). Car still does not fire. We picked up a Code Reader from Adv Auto (thanks for the ride, Rob). I got the code "PO335", which is "Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction". I checked the plug for said sensor (right behind the valve cover), and it is a good tight fit.
That means I have to tear my timing belt cover back off again. Oh boy. And the acc belt, and all those DAMN PULLIES! Going back out (now) to continue working on it. Hopefully I will have her running tonight. Hopefully.
-Mike
Mike, on the clutch cylinder that we had problems with, I looked it up. There's a bleed nipple on the clutch master cylinder, bleed through that, then bleed the slave cylinder. Shame on me for not having had to bleed the clutch master cyl before. ;P Just bleed it the same way we did everything else. Pedal up -> open valve -> pedal down -> close valve -> repeat until no air, then rebleed the slave the same way.
Rob - 04 Ralliart - Slowest car on MIEvo
Thanks for the info Rob. Going to update the OP here in a couple of minutes. Got some good news, except: My PC fucked up on me somehow this evening. Damnit. :|
-Mike
Whoa.. it runs!! Sweet........ congrats Mik!!
Awesome Mike!
That smell could just be hand oils, build oil, and whatnot burning of the block. Check the AC and other lines to be sure that your not rubbing those - just in case.
<<Mike>>
2002 SVTF #2704/4788
15.3 @ 91 mph
Sponsored By:
Swift Springs
GTWorx
mitsubishiparts.net
Would those be the only ones that would be rubbing? I didn't see where they could lastnight (though as I said, I didn't look into it heavily)
-Mike
Without the upper timing belt cover on the power steering line can get to it. That's the first place I would look. Any type of rubbing should be fairly obvious when looking at the belt.
-Paul
2.3l Stroker, Race Ported Head, 3" TBE, AMS FMIC, PPI LICP, AMS UICP w/Tial BOV, AMS Front Motor Mounts, HKS 272s, Walbro 255, PTE 1000cc injectors, Ferodo DS-2500 Brake Pads, Hotchkis Rear Sway Bar, Performance Friction 2-Piece Rotors, Muellerized JIC FLT-A2
Upper timing belt cover is on.
Going to go out and look in a few minutes here. On my father's laptop, trying to figure out the Master Cylinder for the Clutch so that I may bleed it - as my bake system was rather dry for a good long period, and I have NO clutch pressure what-so-ever.
If anyone has info on this, PM me or call me.
-Mike
Found out what that smell was. It's my exhaust manifold - it's smoking like I have a huge exhaust leak or something. Except it's not coming from where the turbo mounts, or from where the mani mounts to the block. It's coming off of the actual manifold. Stinks like hell too. Maybe some kind of cleaner was put onto it? (Wayne? Do you know?)
-Mike
Hey Mike, on the clutch cylinder, there should be a bleeder valve on the end of the master cylinder. You might not be able to see it, but you should be able to feel it.
If you don't have a bleed nipple like that, then you probably bleed it the same way we did the brake master cylinder (disconnect output lines, cover them with fingers while someone works the pedal)
As for the smoking exhaust manifold, just let it burn off, should go away. If I so much as touch mine with my bare hand while it's cold, it'll burn when I start it. It's likely a combo of cleaner and oil residue from being handled.
I tried calling you, but Vik has the phone and isn't near you. ;P
Rob - 04 Ralliart - Slowest car on MIEvo
Yeah, got an update for tonight. Gotta do multiple reboots as my computer went FooBar lastnight.![]()
-Mike
Ran into an issue.
Car threw a PO507 code
Car overheated like a SOB (not more than 2 miles from home)
Car has no radiator fluid in it (I dumped 2 gals in it).
I think it's leaking from one of the turbo water lines.
Car also has no reliable brakes.
-Mike
The PO507 is surprising. Your car seemed to idle pretty well at a reasonable RPM.
If you have a leak that dumped that much coolant it should be pretty obvious. Is it possible that you had some air in the system and just need to top it off? The aftermarket radiator you have may have a larger than stock capacity.
Regarding your brakes, you may have something on the rotors that will need to be worn off. Bedding in the brakes will help a lot but you'll need to get the engine finished up first.
-Paul
2.3l Stroker, Race Ported Head, 3" TBE, AMS FMIC, PPI LICP, AMS UICP w/Tial BOV, AMS Front Motor Mounts, HKS 272s, Walbro 255, PTE 1000cc injectors, Ferodo DS-2500 Brake Pads, Hotchkis Rear Sway Bar, Performance Friction 2-Piece Rotors, Muellerized JIC FLT-A2
On the brakes, does the pedal go to the floor, feel spongy, or is it still a firm pedal?
Rob - 04 Ralliart - Slowest car on MIEvo
Floor & spongy, pump it a few times and I get good breaks/excessively firm pedal.
As for the coolant, yeah. I'd expect it to be pretty obvious. Except it's not. I do see some fluid on the front of the engine, but not enough to really warrant a full blown hose.
-Mike
How did you bleed the brakes?
With our fronts you have to bleed the inside bleeders first then the outside ones. If you dont to that you will have air in your lines - and as always make sure you have no leaks from any corner. (PS - old school guys do the brake that is furthest from the res. (rear pass). Then rear driver - then front pass - then front driver -- you work the air out of the system.
<<Mike>>
2002 SVTF #2704/4788
15.3 @ 91 mph
Sponsored By:
Swift Springs
GTWorx
mitsubishiparts.net
Hrm, check for leaks in the brake system then rebleed. If the pedal is hitting the floor, then my best guess is that you lost fluid, since you had a firm pedal after we bled the system.
We followed the manual's bleeding process (Master cyl ->RR->LF->LR->RF, inner then outer bleed on each caliper.)
Rob - 04 Ralliart - Slowest car on MIEvo
Maybe it was because of the bleeding we had to do on the clutch?
Still gotta figure out the radiator and why I lost all that fluid. Gonna go poo and start working (again).
So tired of wasting all of my damn nights on this car. I just want to drive it.![]()
-Mike